New York Times food critic slams Guy Fieri's new Times Square restaurant

By Daniel S Levine,

Guy Fieri is not going to want to look at New York Times food critic Pete Wells’ scathing review of his new Times Square restaurant, Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar. From the very first paragraph, Wells’ review is a parade of questions slamming the restaurant, as Wells wonders if the Food Network host has actually ever eaten there.

“Guy Fieri, have you eaten at your new restaurant in Times Square?” Wells begins his review. “Have you pulled up one of the 500 seats at Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar and ordered a meal? Did you eat the food? Did it live up to your expectations?”

Wells asks Fieri if he was overcome by “panic” while he created the menu and if he noticed “that the menu was an unreliable predictor of what actually came to the table.”

He writes that none of the items on the menu have anything to do with what he was served. “Why is one of the few things on your menu that can be eaten without fear or regret — a lunch-only sandwich of chopped soy-glazed pork with coleslaw and cucumbers — called a Roasted Pork Bahn Mi, when it resembles that item about as much as you resemble Emily Dickinson?”

Wells notes that the kind of all-American food Fieri promotes on the Food Network is not respected by his new restaurant. “Or is it all an act?” he asks about Fieri’s TV personality. “Is that why the kind of cooking you celebrate on television is treated with so little respect at Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar?”

He even asks Fieri if the “WELCOME TO FLAVOR TOWN!” was just him “messing with our heads.”

Even the restaurant’s design was not immune to Wells’ criticisms. “Is the entire restaurant a very expensive piece of conceptual art? Is the shapeless, structureless baked alaska that droops and slumps and collapses while you eat it, or don’t eat it, supposed to be a representation in sugar and eggs of the experience of going insane?” he wrote.

According to The Hollywood Reporter, Fieri is the host of the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. Fieri and the Food Network have not responded to the review yet.

However, NBC News notes that the New York Post also savaged the restaurant. "I wouldn’t feed the mess to a cat," the Post wrote.

"Well, they must not like their cat very much," Fieri told CBS This Morning after the review was published in October.

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