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Alexandria, Virginia - Part 4
Snowbound and Hungry in Alexandria Virginia.
Written by: Janet Pope
Stuck in a blizzard, in the middle of a Alexandria, Janet sees the culinary and historic delights of the town.
Today was to be a day of new beginnings - a day of sunshine and cleared roads... We were hopeful travelers. This morning we were determined to see more of Alexandria than its fine restaurants.
We picked up a tour guide, Steve Doss, arranged by the Visitors Bureau. Steve wanted us to get a "feel" for Alexandria and with snow boots on we took off on a walking (or hiking) tour.
The first stop was the Ramsey House built in 1724. The house is currently a rebuilt version of the original house, which had burned to the ground except for the foundation. Mr. Ramsey we learned was the first mayor of the town.
Next, it was on to the Carlyle House circa 1752. Mr. Carlyle was a prominent tobacco trader. His home was restored in 1976, around the time that Alexandria realized its worth as an historical destination, and began restoring their homes and the town. Old Alexandria was settled in the 1670’s due to the importance of its placement on the river, and the benefits its location can afford. The Carlyle House ended up being used as a hospital during the Civil War.
We walked past one of the local "hangouts", Gadsby’s Tavern, built in 1785. This was where anyone who was anybody in early politics would make connections. Washington, Jefferson, Franklin, Madison etc. the original " Rat Pack". The chandelier hanging inside is period and outside one can still see the icehouse where ice would last from the winter till mid summer. It is here that supposedly Washington celebrated his birthday and that tradition continues.
We walked the streets that Hessian Soldiers laid during the Revolution. Evidently the town had its share of ruckus behavior, as an annex had to be built to the jail in 1831 in order to hold all of the inebriated sailors.
We passed one historical marker after another – Robert E. Lee’s boyhood home being one of them. Our guide pointed out that the Lees and the Washingtons were just two of the prominent families of Alexandria.
Next we passed Christ Church where Washington’s pew still sits. Most of our Presidents including George Bush Junior and Senior have made a visit to this church and sat in Washington’s pew.
Unfortunately all of these historical sites were still closed and we were not able to sit where our great leaders sat. I’ll have to settle for having sat where Davey Jones had once been.
The tour took us past Market Square where since 1849 it has served, as the nation’s longest running open-air Farmers Market. Across the street is the Burke and Herbert Bank, Virginia’s second bank, which opened in 1852. And the Apothecary from 1792. The Apothecary, our version of a drugstore, was boarded up in the 1930's. When it was reopened a decade later a cache of history was discovered: doctor’s notes and letters from George Washington’s physicians were found as well as medicines and herbs found in their original bottles.
Along our walking journey, we saw Captain‘s Row, where all the Sea Captains once lived. As the street had a fine view of the harbor. And finally we passed the Friendship Firehouse built in 1855.
Our Tour guide, Steve, had so much more he wanted to show us and explain to us but my focus was dwindling as I lost feeling in my toes. Steve graciously consented to end the one and a half hour walk at the Warehouse Bar & Grill, which opened in 1969. It was originally a warehouse for a torpedo factory, and the building dates back to 1868.
Walking in, the hundreds of caricatures lining the walls immediately strike you. I thought I was back in New York City in Sardi’s. At first glance, I noticed Katie Couric and I assumed that the drawings were of the "rich and famous". Here they are of mostly the regular locals and it is the famous folk who have to "fight" for wall space. Brian McCall is the artist that is commissioned to do the art works. How cool to have your face immortalized at your local hangout.
The rest of the eatery was decorated with old neighborhood photos and we had fun trying to identify the spots we had just been to in our walk.
The mood here is casual and fun and the menu specializes in Creole/Cajun style. The restaurant can seat 120 and there are plenty of intimate little corners for relaxation. After our walk amid the snow mounds, we ended up relaxing here for quite some time and the atmosphere was unhurried.
Since this was our last day in Alexandria I wanted to do my part to contribute to their economy – I wanted to shop. Unfortunately many stores were closed, but it was great fun to see the diversity of quaint shops and I managed to find a few that were open.
We walked to the river’s edge and explored a facility called the "Torpedo Factory – Art in Action". This entire renovated building is home to 83 art studios and six galleries. More than 160 artists and craftspeople work here and display their art. It is a great place for browsing and for buying the perfect one of a kind original piece. It is located right on the Potomac River and the view from certain points only adds to its appeal.
The building was built in 1918 to manufacture torpedo shell casings and there are a few displayed in the building. After World War II, the space was used predominately for storage until it was transformed into an art center in 1974.
We continued our exploring and stopped into more boutiques, gift shops and bookstores. Before we knew it, it was time for another meal. We ate in town at a Spanish restaurant called Las Tapas and both Don and I began a lesson in the history of the Tapas. We learned that the origin of this part of the meal comes from the 18th Century. "Tapas" which means to cover in Spanish. As the story goes, weary travelers arriving in town from coach and horses, would be met by eager innkeepers looking for business. They would greet the hungry traveler with a glass of wine "topped" by a slice of bread, in hopes of wetting their appetite. The Tapa, or covering, actually served a second purpose of protecting the wine from dirt. From this, the Tapa evolved into a slice of Serrano Ham on a bit of Manchago Cheese, as enterprising innkeepers tried to seduce business. Tapas today are small delectable portions of food that are enjoyed traditionally with wine, olive oil and bread. They have become a way of unhurried, casual dining that lends itself to a wonderful fun atmosphere.
The restaurant is decorated with tiles and candlelit tables, transporting you to Spain. We tried three Tapas, a cold cheese, salami and prosciutto dish, a grilled calamari and roasted potatoes with a red wine sauce. All were delicious and it was extremely difficult to choose, since the menu boasted 55 Tapas.
We enjoyed a dry white Spanish wine, Rubins, and again the wine list was extensive.
For dinner Donald had a house specialty – Paella Valencia - a combination of rice, chicken, pork, mussels and an abundance of flavors. Don savored each taste and remarked, "My taste buds think it’s the Fourth of July." The portions were exceptionally large and I could only finish half of my chicken dish. The chicken was rolled and stuffed with spinach and mushrooms and served with rice and fresh sautéed vegetables. The entrees were a picture of eye-appealing presentation severed on large colorful painted plates.
Dinner here was a dining experience and we ended our meal with Flan De La Abuela, described as Grandmother’s Crème Caramel.
We relaxed with a cup of espresso and thought, "What could be better than this?" After dinner, a flamenco show began in the main dining room. The music was so overwhelming that it was easy to forget that you were in the middle of a city in America. The dancers were extremely expressive and intense. It was mesmerizing to watch their precise hand motions and the steady beat of their feet. They exuded an attitude of concentration and passion. It was a wonderful show and after their exhausting performance we found out that they put another show at nine.
Dining in Alexandria is a very enveloping experience. The restaurants are varied in décor, menu, style and price range affording the traveler a myriad of possibilities.
Our time in Alexandria did not allow us to see more sites; it was easy to see that the city has a vast array of cultural, social and historical offerings. This was definitely a city I would revisit for its shopping, its ambience and its food, but next time, not in the snow.
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4
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