Historically Hip Amsterdam ... Where Old Meets New
Part 1
Arrival in Old Amsterdam
After a six-and-a-half hour flight from JFK, I arrived at Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam to meet a group of over forty journalists who gathered to see all there was to see in the capital of Holland. After a half-hour bus ride, a third of our group, myself included, arrived at Barbizon Palace Hotel. This renovated Old World style hotel is situated in the heart of the city opposite Central Station, where the trams and railways can take you anywhere you want to go within the city and beyond. Lucky for me, the Barbizon Palace is near the “nine-alleys,” which are main streets that crisscross Amsterdam’s many canals. These streets are filled with quaint little pubs, all kinds of restaurants, and various places to shop. Each establishment is more exceptional than the next, and most have a real old European feel to them. Of course, there are more modern, hip establishments sprinkled in, and this old and new trend reflects the city as a whole. Amsterdam is a historical city with ambience and a contemporary feel -- it’s an interesting and very cool dichotomy of Old World charm mixed with modern metropolis.
Walking Tour of Old Amsterdam
After I was settled in, napped and showered, (and very angry at myself for forgetting to pack my contact lenses), I joined my peers for a walking tour of the city and was almost run over by a bicycle -- there are over 400,000 bicycles in this city! After I recovered, I learned all about the city’s 165 canals. Since I’ve been to Venice, I expected these 10 foot canals, complete with picturesque bridges, to smell and be devoid of fish, but I was mistaken. They are clean, full of aquatic life, and have adorable houseboats bobbing on them -- some even had floating gardens. The city itself is built on wooden pilings and concrete, an architectural marvel in itself.
Visitors can get an excellent view of the historical buildings with their ornamented gables by taking a boat tour. All the sights are all illuminated at night, so none of the city’s rich architecture is missed. The tall, narrow brownstone houses and buildings date from the 16th to the 20th centuries, with some spectacular structures from the 17th century, Holland’s Golden Age, when Amsterdam was the wealthiest city in the world.
One random architectural factoid I learned was that each building has a protruding beam with a hook on its roof to hoist up large furniture and belongings, which are then put through the large open windows. Staircases aren’t an option when moving belongings for Amsterdam residents. Since they are close together and so tall and narrow, every thing and every space in these buildings has a purpose and a function.
There are many well-hidden attractions in this compact city, and walking is best the way to discover them. Smack in the middle of a street amongst the trendy bars and restaurants was an ornate Buddhist temple, very close in proximity to the famous Red Light District. A floating flower market is another main attraction. For bargain hunters, there are flea markets where, depending on what day you go, books and art are sold. Simply walk into an old-fashioned drug store or first-class cigar shop to experience Old World charm. Every turn on each block has something to see and offer.
The Museums
There are 35 museums in Amsterdam, so art lovers will have much to do. A visit to the Anne Frank House is a must, but timing is essential. There’s usually a line out the door, but I managed to breeze right in late on a rainy Sunday afternoon. The Secret Annexe has been restored to make the house resemble its appearance when Anne Frank and her family and friends hid from the Nazis during World War II. There are many exhibits to keep visitors immersed in the time and happenings of that period. Some were: narrated films playing in the close-quarters of the Secret Annexe; interactive computer programs giving detailed description of each room and the front factory; and of course, the diaries themselves. Pencil markings scratched on the wallpaper of the children’s growth during their time there, and Anne’s pictures of movie starts adorning her bedroom walls were truly heart-wrenching to see knowing their fate. If you’ve read the diary, or even if you haven’t, this is truly a touching and important historical stop on your visit to Amsterdam.
The Stedelijk Museum contains impressive artwork from such masters as Pablo Picasso, Paul Cezanne, Claude Monet, and Jackson Pollack, as well as many collections of modern art, photography, design and new media. The Rembrandt House Museum is also a must-see for visiting art enthusiasts, since he was Holland’s greatest 17th century painter and resided there from the age of 25. On the 400th birthday of this world famous artist, visitors can take a walking tour of the many locations that played important roles in his life. Some will include: the Oude Kerk (Old Church); the Waag (Weighing House) where he painted his anatomical lessons; the Royal Palace on Dam Square; the town hall; and the Westerkerk Church. Of course, the Rembrandt House, which features 250 of the 300 etchings Rembrandt created, is included in this tour. The House is restored to resemble its original façade during the Golden Age when Rembrandt lived and worked there for twenty years.
The Five Flies Restaurant – Traditionally Dutch
Restaurant d’Vijff Vlieghen is a traditional Dutch dining establishment fashioned from five attached row houses that were built in 1627. Five original Rembrandt etchings hang in the restaurant’s Rembrandt Room. The restaurant also contains 16th century armor and a collection of Golden Age handmade glassware. There are nine cozy dining rooms adorned with Old Dutch décor, yet each has a different feel and flavor. There are artworks, sculptures and knickknacks everywhere you turn, but more importantly, the traditional Dutch food is quite tasty. My favorite part of the evening was sampling their original homemade gin at the meal’s conclusion. It’s flavored with herbs and honey and only costs 13 Euros for a small bottle -- a real bargain for something so original!
