Helena

Helena is famous for two things: the King Biscuit Flour Hour and the home of the Delta blues. Musically, it has had a major influence on the entire music world and the country. On the other side of the coin, the town (as is the Mississippi Delta) is going through a major depression, and the town sure shows it. Of all of the towns we've ever seen, this is one of the most depressed -- a stark contrast from the beautiful gospel and blues music it creates.

Our first stop was the Greater First Baptist Church, where we heard their choir perform some songs from a typical service for us. The show was well worth it. They didn't have flashy costumes or professional training, but their music sure rivaled other groups who had those funds and resources.

We drove through the town, which has some beautiful antebellum mansions intermixed with broken-down homes and abandoned buildings. The town is completely filled with these contrasts -- from mansions which stand out as some of the most beautiful on the Delta, to entire city blocks which are completely desolate.

We headed over to a theater on their main street, "Cherry Street," and saw a live blues performance by John Weston. He performed a few songs on guitar, with his "22-year-old toddler" helping on vocals, and a drummer in support.

One of the biggest prerequisites to singing the blues is suffering and feeling blue. It's having gone through life's trials and tribulations. Well, John is certainly right, as can be evidenced by the area.

Live Blues

The town has suffered and has a reason to sing the blues, and they certainly do it well. In fact, they do it so well; they have the King Biscuit Blues Festival every year. Every Columbus Day weekend, the town's population swells from 5-7,000 up to over 110,000 people.

The King Biscuit Flour Hour is one of the longest running radio shows in the country. It focuses on blues as a whole, from up and coming acts to well known acts. Why the "King Biscuit Flour" hour? King Biscuit Flour is a local product and has been sponsoring it for years.

Our visit to Helena was certainly filled with contrasts. The music was probably some of the most intense and best performances of gospel and blues we've ever seen. The town, however, is one of the most depressed and abandoned towns we've ever seen.


Delta Queen
Oak Alley Plantation
Baton Rouge
Natchez
Vicksburg
Helena