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Malaysia - Part 4
Written by: Donald Miserandino
Photography by: Donald Miserandino
The opportunity of a lifetime proved to be the experience of a lifetime in our journey to the Far East and the multi-cultured land of Malaysia, where we uncovered the mysteries of friendly hospitality in another world and our introduction to squat toilets.
The next day, we left the hotel in the early morning for a short jungle trek in the Bako National Park in the state of Sarawak. So it was back to the ferry, back to the jetty, up the hill, and into the "cement mixer" for an hour trip to the park. There is a lot to see on these highway trips. Forests being control burned to clear fields to plant spice pepper and mountain (brown) rice, and a lot of road building work. We stopped for a short rest in a strip storehouse area of about 10-12 buildings. I stretched my legs, bought some bottled water for the trip in the park, and re-entered the "kidney-cruncher." After about 30 minutes, we made a sudden left into a complex of small houses, and then down a road leading to a dock by the river. On either side of the dock was a restaurant and souvenir shop. Across the river was a village accessed by a water taxi from the side we were on--the dock was quite busy.
After a short wait, we got in an open boat and put on life vests for a 30-minute trip to the Park. Our travel up the river was relaxing: a beautiful sunny day and a calm river. We went past large bamboo poles fashioned into large Xs and connected by poles in the middle. It was explained that these are braces for the fishing nets placed in the river. Later in the day, they would be checked, and hopefully dinner and income are removed. From the river, we entered the South China Sea and traveled along the coast to the park entrance.
Established in 1957, The Park is in the Borneo rainforest and is treated as a national treasure. From our boat we got on a dock leading to an extensive boardwalk complex that would lead to adventure or to retreat. While a retreat to a coffee shop seemed appealing, adventure was already at hand.
We saw several Proboscis Monkeys and Silvered Leaf Monkeys from a distance. We were warned not to look into their eyes, or show our teeth as in a big smile. Apparently they might take our reactions as an aggressive act. That's the same advice I gave my kids when walking the streets of Manhattan. After practicing my best scowl look, we went for a two-hour walk up the mountainside to see giant pitcher plants, thorny trees, huge plants, and ants almost over an inch long. I tried to take a picture, but the ants wouldn't smile. Maybe they heard about the monkey rule.
There are well-blazed trails in the park, so if one were reasonably careful, getting lost would not be a concern. But let me tell you, they are not easy. Some lead up hillsides almost 60 degrees up, over roots, rocks, and rattan with thorns waiting to apply scratches to a wayward leg. I must have sweated constantly, but had no pains--just tired legs.
After the hike, at the snack house in the park we had a quiet lunch--all the time looking over the shoulder because a gang of monkeys typically comes in to steal food. In fact, the garbage cans are even set up to foil the best monkey's attempt to have leftovers. While holding the garbage in one hand, your soda in the other, you press down a foot pedal about three feet away from the can opening. If you are still maintaining balance, toss in the garbage. Oh yeah, remember, while you are still looking out for the monkeys, they are looking at you and laughing too much to try to grab the garbage.
The trip by boat back to the main dock where the car was parked was uneventful. We passed by bamboo rigging the fishing nets hung on. We watched a dark cloud pass over our heads and dump tons of water on us. Fortunately, I had a rain poncho, but even more fortunate the open boat did not fill with water. We got onto the dock with wet feet, amazed at how much rain had fallen in a short time. Kids getting out of school rushed down to the dock to take a water taxi to cross the river. By the time they got halfway across, they already removed some of their wet clothes and put them in their backpacks.
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Kuching Cats in the Museum | |
On the way back to the Hilton Kuching, we stopped at the "Cat Museum" in the Kuching North City Hall. Assembled here is an exhibit of the love between people and cats that goes back thousands of years. They have a cat mummy, cat statues, and pictures of famous people through history who have had cats, wild cats, and domesticated cats in various pictures, shapes and sizes. This is a paradise for Cat Lovers. Strangely, it was very relaxing, too. Some say the name of the city, Kuching, comes from the word for "cat"; others say the name comes from a type of flower. I think by now the city is comfortable with the cat interpretation.
Back at the hotel we were given time to clean up, rest and then pack for the airline trip back to Kuala Lumpur in order to stay at the Shangri-la Hotel.
The Shangri-la Hotel is a 5-star deluxe hotel that leaves nothing for the wanting. Centrally located with shopping and transportation nearby, inside the hotel there are modern facilities, a small shopping center, and a variety of restaurants. We arrived late from Kuching--I guess about 12:30 a.m.--I was really impressed by the hotel staff who had apparently arranged to meet and greet us even at this late hour. When it's this late, I'm used to sneaking into the house, and here they practically have an army available to get us into our rooms.
Read part 1 | Read part 2 | Read part 3 | Read part 5
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