Janet and Donald visit the French just up north in Montreal.
Recently, on my first trip to Montreal, I had the distinct impression that I fell asleep on a plane leaving New York City and after an hour nap, I woke up in Paris! It felt a little surreal to be in another country and another culture in such a short period of time. Don and I arrived late on a Friday night, but the definitive French sights and sounds were so compelling that we could not sleep. We walked the city streets browsing the store windows, sipping coffee in an outdoor cafe and listening to the French conversations of the passersby.
Hotel St. Sulpice
Out hotel Le Saint-Sulpice only added to the European illusion. A porter, whose voice took me back to a younger Maurice Chevalier era, warmly greeted us. Our suite was large with a full kitchen, living room, bedroom and bath, which had a tile shower big enough to host a small party. The hotel's amenities included a Spa, which unfortunately we did not get to enjoy, and a business center, which we did.
On our first morning in this city, reminiscent of France, we discovered a tiny cafe, "Cafe St. Paul", where we enjoyed breakfast, served here with a side order of baked beans. Next, we visited the Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal built in 1824. Though not as large as Saint Patrick's Cathedral in New York City, I found it just as impressive and ornate in design. Costing $100,000, it took five years to build and 100 years to pay off the debt (sounds worse than the student loans from our kids).The Our Lady of the Sacred Heart Chapel was added in 1891, but was rebuilt in 1980 due to a fire. It's a beautiful space, which currently has a one-year waiting list for weddings. The Basilica is an extraordinary place to visit for the history, the old world artisan workmanship, the architecture and the sacredness of the space. For those who wish, it is a place to pray as well as a place to tour and one that certainly any faith can appreciate.
We grabbed a quick cab and headed to the Atwater Market on the Canal-de-Lachine. In the 17th century, waterways were the main routes of travel and in order to satisfy manufacturing in Montreal, the Lachine Canal opened in 1825. This was a busy local canal until the St. Lawrence Seaway opened in 1959 and eventually the smaller canal closed in 1970. In 1997, Montreal decided to revitalize the canal and reopened it to boating. We took a two-hour, bi-lingual tour run by Parks Canada. Passing through locks being lowered and raised we enjoyed the leisurely cruise while watching the walkers and bikers on the adjoining trails. It's another great way to see the city, as a tour guide points out the buildings in the background.
Though the cruise was listed as bi-lingual there were many times we felt out of the loop, when the tour guide would share jokes and laughter with the abundance of French speaking participants. When it was time to translate our version of the narration would be much shorter, minus any attempt at humor. Though it is easy to get around speaking only English, not speaking French in Montreal makes you a distinct and sometimes quite noticeable minority.
Directly across from the canal is the Atwater Market, a conglomerate of indoor and outdoor vendors selling produce, meats, cheeses and baked goods. In existence since the 1930s, this busy shopping area attracts locals and visitors with the lure of fresh and diverse products. Walking through the shops we finally succumbed to the luscious smells and all diets were thrown out the window. Don sampled a sausage sandwich on a crisp roll and I tried the Broccoli quiche. When in Montreal, quiche seemed appropriate. Bistro style tables lined the center aisle in order to grab a quick snack while shopping.
Mary W's B&B
Our lodging for the next two nights was in Mary W's Bed and Breakfast. The accommodations in Montreal range from five star large chain hotels to local unassuming B & Bs. Each has its own flair and amenities, with a Bed and Breakfast being known for its charm, intimacy and personal touch. Well little did we know at the outset of this trip the extent of the personal touch we would receive from our host Mary! While at the Atwater Market our plans were to head back towards Old Montreal in order to retrieve our luggage being held at the first hotel. (Remember, usually the hotels will hold luggage for a time even though you have checked out.) We called Mary to tell her we would be a little later than expected and before we could argue further, Mary, a fellow Brooklynite, came to pick us up, drove us to the luggage and brought us back to her B & B. All the while Mary pointed out sights, answered questions and even reminisced with us about the "Old Neighborhood." Ah, there's no one quite like a Brooklynite!
The B & B is located on the third floor of a three story, Grey stone walk-up, built in the 1890's. The entry is typical Montreal French Style with a high (about 45 degree angle) sloping metal stairway, leading to her distinct purple door. Mary furnished a rather large room with period furniture and opened her home and her heart to visitors. She prides herself on the personal service she provides to her guests, as evidenced to us by the door-to-door service. Those looking for anonymity that a larger venue provides should not try a small home based B & B.
After settling in and freshening up, Don and I followed Mary's detailed directions and found the Metro, a convenient block away. In a few short stops we were at Victoria Square, where we had dinner reservations at Boris Bistro.
The Boris Bistro is a continental restaurant known not only for the good food but the ambiance both indoors and outdoors. The restaurant enjoys the use of a side garden where up to 140 people can dine on the atmosphere as well as the food. The garden is separated from the street by a 150 year-old facade that was retained when the original nearby building burned down. It is held in place by steel beams and girders that only add a theatrical touch to this atmosphere. The umbrella-covered tables are lit by candlelight, and the garden, by artistically placed individual tree based spotlights. The scene was straight out of 'Les Mis". This is the place to relax and enjoy the music and the feel of Montreal.
We arrived early in the evening and had the garden to ourselves. It felt like we were being served dinner in an elegant private backyard but soon a dozen more tables were filled, as this is a popular nightspot. Our dinner was delicious with Don trying the wild mushroom fricassee and the fried croustillant filled with prosciutto, cheese, leaks and oven dried tomatoes. There goes the Atkins diet.
I enjoyed the fish and corn chowder and the pork fillet with a sweet cranberry sauce. Unusual for me, my plate was empty! Though stuffed we both tried dessert and cappuccino only to prolong our stay in this outdoor garden and enjoy the beautiful summer like weather in October.
Within a few blocks walking distance, we found ourselves back at the Notre-Dame Basilica and a line was queuing up for their Light and Sound show. The church looked even more beautiful in the evening with the various stained glass windows aglow. We decided to catch the show and it was fascinating. Upon entering the Basilica you immediately noticed the front and sides were artistically draped in rather large white cloths. The church was dimly lit and there was an air of hushed anticipation. Headphones were provided in French or English.
Notre Dame Basillica
Soon the lights dimmed out and swooshes of color and light danced to music on the screens. The background story of Montreal's historical settlement and the building of the church in particular, began to unfold through an on screen narrative. Initially, I thought the acting was simplistic in the portrayal of various characters but soon the drapes dropped away one by one to highlight the church itself and the acting seems to be insignificant to the moment. Enhanced by lights and music, a focus was put on various aspects and designs of the Basilica, making you notice them distinctly. I thought the concept was so unique- to showcase the history of the Basilica through music, lights, and narration during the evening when it would be less used.
After the show, directly across from the Basilica was a line of horse drawn carriages. I'm not sure, perhaps it was the magic of the starlit sky, or the spirituality of the church, or the influence of the full moon, but Don actually agreed to a romantic carriage ride through the old city. Mr. Grumpy, when asked by the driver if he wanted a picture of the two of us responded, "I don't need a picture, I know what she looks like!!!" So much for romance, there's only so much that the magic of Montreal can do.
Anyway, my prince charming and I were escorted around Montreal as our driver Michelle and her horse Belle gave us a "private" tour. I never tired of hearing "Bonjour" and "Merci" all day, but tonight its "Bonsoir" for now.
