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North Fork - Part 3
Written by: Janet Pope
Photography by: Donald
Janet explores the gardens, B&B and vineyards of Long Island's famous North Fork.
After saying our good-byes, we made our way to the Horton’s Point Lighthouse built in 1856, though it was commissioned by George Washington in 1708. The grounds were pristine and tranquil and the view of the Long Island Sound was panoramic. You can spend a good part of the day there, as there are ample tables and even barbecue pits, making for a great family picnic or rest stop. The lighthouse is only opened weekends, Memorial Day to Columbus Day and when we went it was still mid-May, so we’ll have to plan a return trip.
Our backup plan was to shop for "plants" since the roads were lined with nurseries. We priced a few places and ended up buying over $125 worth of flowers to take home. Our car smelled beautiful and looked a like a rainbow had been squeezed inside.
We still had a little time before our luncheon reservation so we decided to hit any shops on Main Street in Greenport that we had missed the day before. One of the interesting ones was the "Artists Gallery". It claims to be the largest Haitian Art Gallery in the United States, prominently featuring Roger Francois, as well as a showcase for over 15 local artists. This was a great place to browse before we trekked through the multitude of antique stores and gift shops.
Our lunch appointment proved the highlight of our trip to Greenport and is a "must see" when visiting the area. Lunch at Claudio’s is not just a venture into a delicious meal ,but a bit of living history as well. The restaurant is built in 1870 and is the oldest single family run restaurant in America. We were lucky enough to meet the current owner, Bill Claudio Jr. He told us the compelling story of Manuel Claudio, his great grandfather’s uncle who sailed here numerous times from 1854 to 1870, as he worked on a ship called "Neva". Back then, Greenport and whaling were synonymous. Manuel had a difficult life at sea, as most sailors did at that time. They often were at sea for a two-year voyage. In 1870 Manual landed once again in Greenport, and at the young age of 31 decided to retire from the sea and open Claudio’s Tavern. Thus a family empire was begun steeped in rich tradition.
First let me tell you about our delicious meal. The menu has specials, but seafood, the Claudio way, is an everyday specialty. The baked clams we shared as an appetizer were the best clams I have ever, ever, ever tasted. The clams were fresh, minced and mixed with an almost creamy textured filling. The New England Clam Chowder also was a fitting choice to back up this culinary experience. I could have eaten the clams, chowder and a salad and have been very happy. Donald had the crab cakes as an entrée and he described them as being "more crabby than cakey". I think he meant more crab than filling. I had the stuffed shrimp, and I was also pleasantly surprised. There was a lot of little shrimp in my big stuffed shrimp. It was delicious, served with rice pilaf and grilled vegetables.
After all of that, we had the nerve to try and eat dessert. Don attempted "Claudio’s Commotion" – a peanut encrusted dark chocolate cup filled with cappuccino ice cream and whipped cream. I had the basic hot fudge sundae. It was not just a good meal but a great one!
One of the factors that make a great meal is the atmosphere, and Claudio’s is filled with it. I loved our window seat as we got a close up view of the harbor activity and even before their traditional busy season, it was busy. We watched literally hundreds of walkers pass by, as Greenport is a walking town and a biking destination.
Our host Bill Claudio treated us to a passionate, historical tour of the restaurant and a love for the business. He proudly showed off the 38’ long Victorian Bar installed by Manuel himself. It is a work of art and a testament to old craftsmen of a bygone era. Italian marble handrails, solid brass boot rails and beveled mirror, all glisten as if they know something you don’t. What they know are the secrets of "history".
I could go on and on, writing about the original trap door from speakeasy days and the antique swinging bar doors which now grace the men’s room, but I would suggest you go to Claudio’s yourself and look around, if you can stop eating.
Unfortunately, it was time to head back home.
We had a great time exploring the North Fork – food, shopping and of course wine. On season, off-season, any season. I can't wait to go home and tell Emma and Jack all about it.
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
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