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Lucerne - Part 3
Written by: Donald Miserandino
Photography by: Donald Miserandino
the place I lost my heart ...
I got up early to catch a 7:44 train to Lucerne. In the station at that hour were a lot of students going to school and a few commuters. The signs were clear, the tracks numbered, and the trains labeled, so with my Swiss Pass in hand, I started off on my adventure. The Swiss pass enables the holder to take the various forms of transportation throughout the country for a specific period of time. Boat, train or bus, the pass will get you where you want to go. The train to Lucerne was right on time. The trip took almost three hours and I was able to get in some tour-guide reading. For the past several days I have been in Geneva trying to understand French and now I will arrive in Lucerne only to confront the German. I am reminding myself that if everyone spoke only English the world would be boring.
The train arrived at the Lake Lucerne station in the late morning and Manuel Kronenberg of the Grand National Hotel greeted me. Here was my first hint that Lucerne was going to be special. Kronenberg was efficient, knowledgeable and able to answer all my questions.
I stayed at the Grand Hotel National in Lucerne, built in 1871 in the French Renaissance style with much respect for the traditions of the old but well suited to deal with the needs of today's travelers. My room overlooked Lake Lucerne, so each morning I had a beautiful view of the mountains.
The afternoon was taken up with a guided walking tour of the town of Lucerne with Eveline Bueler of Vereinigung Der Reisefuherer Von Luzern. This was a great way to get familiar with the town and see some of the prominent sights. In my case, the Luzerne Tourist Board arranged this tour. The board is available by Internet to answer questions and help with tours. Mrs. Bueler showed me the Chapel Bridge, several churches, town hall, the Jesuit Church and the Lion Monument. All the time she was giving me history and background to the town's development. On our tour I noticed many buildings and tourist spots were handicapped accessible. In fact the Chapel Bridge even has a wheelchair lift so all tourists can enjoy its history and view. This town is very user friendly!
That night’s dinner was at the Art Deco Hotel Montana...cool and contemporary. It was a short cable car ride from the street up the mountainside into the hotel. Maria Bueler of the marketing department gave me a tour of the hotel and I was impressed by her knowledge of the hotel's history and her ability to explain the Modern Art deco-style. She introduced me to Chef Walter Mentner, who authored a book revealing the favorite recipes of the Scala restaurant. There is a culinary school associated with the restaurant and the students certainly learned their lessons. Service was prompt, attentive and professional.
My second day in Lucerne started out on a mellow note. The day was a bit overcast, damp and slightly chilly. A good day for adventure. I met Mrs. Colette Richter of the Mount Pilatus Railway, who took me on a tour of Mount Pilatus by way of the world's steepest cogwheel railway. The rails and the train are kept together by use of toothed wheels or cogs, hence the name. The train cars go up at almost 48 degrees, so passengers feel like they are going straight up the mountain. On the way up we got off to watch a farmer giving a cheese-making exhibit, then re-embarked another train to reach the top of the mountain. The air was somewhat thin but I didn't notice until I dared to go up another 50 feet or so. Then, every couple of steps, I needed to rest and catch my breath. I did make it, though a lot more respectful of the soldiers who had to climb these mountains in the world war. Almost 7,000 feet high and I chose to get down by a gondola and cable car. I didn't close my eyes but I did watch the ropes. This is a thrilling experience. Between the mountain height, the view of the lake and a sudden storm that left almost an inch of snow on the ground, it was fun.
My next trip led me on a tour of the chocolate laboratory of Backerei Heini by Bruno Heini. The factory and the two nearby stores are heaven for chocolate lovers. The smell of the shops and even the taste of the air are rich.
Heini is a wealth of business acumen. His enthusiasm for the history and quality of his product has proven to be successful formula. The use of existing historical buildings retrofitted to accommodate his bakery needs, show an admirable civic mindedness. Meeting him was a rather high point in the city tour.
The afternoon in Lucerne was spent on a tour of the healing facilities of Park Hotel Weggis with Louise Perlwitz. The town of Weggis is a 40-minute boat trip from Lucerne. (Remember the Swiss rail pass? It gets you on the boats too.)
The Park Hotel Weggis can best be described as a conference/healing/wellness center. The facilities range from private room to large lecture halls and can accommodate private and corporate needs. The location is just off the lake, so it has a wonderful view and private bathing facilities.
The trip back to Lucerne was relaxing, but was taking me back to my last night in this romantic town.
Dinner was at the Restaurant Burgerstube in the Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann. Yes the words "wild man" appears in the name. There is even a picture of the wild man in the hotel's dining room. Sandra Babey, informed me that the hotel's roots go back to the 16th century when it was started as a small local place to get a meal. The Burgerstube has the old woodwork, family crests, main fireplace, beamed ceiling and an original communal hall sink. The history is as prominent as the food. The menu is a showplace of masterful cooking along the lines of the original 16th century as well as contemporary fare.
The food was too good. I had fallen in love with Lucerne. It was hard to leave.
Part 1 - Switzerland
Part 2 - Geneva
Part 3 - Lucerne
Part 4 - Zurich
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