Janet gains a little independence and also learns that Vail is more than just a winter destination.
This was my first time covering a travel assignment without my trusty photographer, my husband Donald, so I had a little angst about things going smoothly. Alright, I had a little more than angst- panic might be a more apt description. After all, I’m a mother and I’m Italian, so I thrive on panic and worry.
After I survived a change of departure terminals, a delayed connecting flight, and a van pick up that had to drop off six other passengers before me, I finally arrived at my hotel safe and sound.
The Vail Mountain Lodge and Spa is western in motif, with large comfortable rooms. At first I wasn’t fortunate enough for a comfortable room, as I had a bit of a flying bug infestation, but they fixed that right away by changing my room, and I was soon comfortable too. After running out for a quick, late night snack at the Bully Ranch, known for their juicy hamburgers, I was looking forward to relaxing and beginning a fresh new day in Vail, after a good night’s sleep.
When I arrived in the dark and the rain, I couldn’t really appreciate the mountainous view behind every corner, so I was anxious to get outside and see the scenery. I awoke at 4:30 am on the first morning, my body falsely thinking I was still on New York time. I stalled as long as I could, but by 7:30 I was the lone patron in the dining room enjoying fresh strawberries, blueberries and raspberries on my cereal. Those late sleepers didn't know what they were missing.
The Lodge is not large in size with only 17 available rooms. It was originally known as the Vail Athletic Club, and its intimate size lends itself to individual attention and service. The front desk manager on duty Mike, was always helpful, and greeted me by name. Of course, he did want me to stay up an extra hour last night, so that he could run to 7-11 to buy bug spray for my gnat infestation, but he suggested it with a smile. With Mike’s directions in hand, I was soon on the quaint streets of Vail, taking in the sights.
The view defies adequate description; breathtaking, all encompassing, and magnificent fall short of presenting a clear picture of the scenery. The Vail Village is neatly nestled in a valley and is Austrian in style, with a multitude of accommodations, quaint stores, eateries and a broad array of activities. Of course when most people think Vail, they think skiing, and it is obviously a world known winter destination for that reason, but Vail has so much more to offer for the summer visitor also.
Vail is a walking town, but to make exploring even easier, there’s a free shuttle bus continually going from one end to the other. I easily found a bus stop and hopped a bus to Lion’s Head Village, which is commonly known as Vail’s twin. Basically, on one side of the valley is Vail Village, in the center are a hospital, library and ice arena complex and on the other side, is a newer area called Lion’s Head Village.
It’s difficult to believe that prior to 1962, basically none of this was here. A Vail legend and founding father was a visionary named Pete Seibert, who was introduced to this area when it was used for a World War 2 boot camp, to train soldiers for fighting in the Italian Alps. Pete loved skiing, so with a dream for a future home base, he began to create the town of Vail as we know it today.
Word among skiing enthusiasts spread quickly, and soon celebrities and politicians followed. The air and water was known to be exceptionally clean, and at the time a lifetime ski pass was a bargain at a cost of only $10. A Milwaukee architect caught the excitement, joined the team, and was an integral part of creating a European village atmosphere.
Obviously, during the sixties and seventies, most came for the love of snow, but it’s more recently been said that "people come here for the winters, but end up staying for the summers." The summer is not as crowded, the weather is mild and pleasant, and the activities have continually grown to include everything from bike riding, to white water rafting and of course there’s the perennial all time favorite of mine- shopping.
It turns out that July is an exceptional time to come here to shop. Since most of the stores have giant clearance sales to make room for a new upcoming winter season. Fifty percent signs appeared everywhere so who could resist? After filling up a shopping bag full of bargains, I rode on the Eagle Bahn Gondola, which takes you up to Adventure Ridge. The Gondola takes fifteen minutes and you reach unbelievable heights. Some hearty souls take the scenic ride one way and either hike or bike down the 6.5 mile trails. Suffice it to say, I am not that hearty.
Getting off the gondola I immediately felt both a change of altitude and a sense of awe. I took pictures and as I snapped each one I knew in my heart that the image would never adequately capture the magnificent, yet beautiful, yet wonderful, yet amazing view. Did I forget, awesome?
It was at the top that I met my tour guides Sherri and Steven who would take a group of us on a hike through both marked and unmarked trails. They pointed out flowers and trees, and the various ranges and mountains in view. I felt a little uncomfortable as I huffed and puffed up the steep and rocky hills trying to keep up with the others, but downhill was a breeze. The guides recommend drinking plenty of water, which I can’t emphasize enough.
I took the gondola down and headed towards a local restaurant Bart and Yettis. Coming from the hot streets of Brooklyn and very used to air conditioning as a way of life in the summer time, I was surprised to learn that most of Vail does not have air conditioning, including both my hotel and this restaurant.
Though the temperatures were in the 90s, all the restaurants just open up their doors and patrons choose to eat outside. The next stop for me was one I‘ve been excitingly looking forward to - an afternoon at the Golden Leaf Spa at the Vail Mountain Marriott. After being warmly greeted, I was given a plush white robe and blue sandals; my spa uniform.
For a few hours, I got to totally indulge in relaxation. I swam in the indoor pool, which I had all to myself, and relaxed in both the Jacuzzi and the sauna. I returned to the "Relaxation Room", a place to decompress after a stressful day. In a perfect world, I think every house should have a Relaxation Room, to unwind in. Soft music plays, a waterfall trickles in the background, cushioned recliners lay in wait, while fresh tea, apples and dried fruit in little packages are available. I made a cup of tea and soaked in the serenity.
Next, I experienced the most relaxing and transforming massage, I’ve ever had. The hot stone massage treatment adds another dimension to the massage experience, and it felt somewhat spiritual as well as physical. This alone was worth the trip to Vail. My schedule was packed, and I soon had to leave this "retreat" and hop a bus back to my hotel to change for dinner. Though it was raining, as it often does on late summer afternoons, my dinner companion and I, forged ahead with our plans to attend the Vail Valley Music Festival concert at the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater. The Fords were, and continue to be, a large and present influence in this community, often coming here in years past to enjoy the skiing and the area. The amphitheater is tucked within the mountains and nestled under the stars, and provides a home base to the cultural scene at Vail during the summer season.
Tonight the New York Philharmonic was playing Beethoven and though it was still drizzling the crowds came out, not only to fill the reserved seating under the cover, but even the lawn area as well. Armed with raincoats, umbrellas and tarps, the Vail crowd proved daunting. We planned a late night dinner at Larkspur, and the surroundings were elegant, complete with candlelit tables and a supper club atmosphere.
I enjoyed a spectacular meal, of Caesar salad and Veal Scaloppini, but was told by my dinner companions that any meal here is consistently spectacular. We shared a unique dessert of four sorbets served in what looked like a large block of ice, on a silver tray.
It was a wonderful day in Vail, worth all of the travel troubles I had in getting here. I discovered Vail is terrific with or without the snow. And it’s a destination for everyone. I also discovered though, scary at first, its nice to travel alone. There are definite benefits, like shopping as long as you like with no one waiting outside the store for you, and stopping to eat whenever hunger hits you. It’s a very freeing experience to do what you want, when you want to, and to realize it’s not so frightening after all to see the world alone. (Though I'm sure my husband would not want me to make a habit of this.) In Vail, getting around is not an issue and the people so far have been friendly and helpful. There was always someone to give directions, have a friendly conversation with. or even take my picture for me.
